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The Mixing of Cultures
Land of history and romance, Cordova is out of my usual ways across Spain. But the challenge of visiting its famous mosque made me go plan an express visit. And I’ve been back more times.
Christians in Moorish Temple
I admire all the examples where one religion accepted something from its forerunner, showing a cultural respect uncommon in past days. We have it in Portugal (for instance in Mértola), but in small scale. With Saint Sophie, in Istanbul, this cathedral is one of the most famous in the world, with the curiosity of their evolution occurring in opposite ways. And with advantage for the Spanish.
In Saint Sophia the Christian symbols were covered for centuries, while in Cordoba the Mihrab still stands in its opulence.
Address: Calle Cardenal Herrero,
Linking the tower of Calahorra to the historic city, across the Puerta del Puente, this bridge with almost 2000 years still works, as the easiest way across the Guadalquivir in central Cordoba. Halfway there’s a statue from the 16th century.
Looking at the pictures we may imagine the differences that 30 years may introduce…
The Guadalquivir, more than a river, is a reference in Spanish culture, history and poetry. Its peaceful passage by the historical Cordoba, reminds the Moorish times, well preserved in most artifacts used to retain or extract the water. To understand all my feelings you need to:
1 – Learn Portuguese or Spanish
2 – Find a record of João Villaret
3 – Listen to him asking:
“…Antonio Torres Heredia.
Camborio de dura crin,
moreno de verde luna,
voz de clavel varonil:
¿Quién te ha quitado la vida cerca del Guadalquivir? …”
From “La muerte de Antonito el Camborio”, by Federico Garcia Lorca.
(IF you did it… good! You may keep on listening to the magic Villaret. If you didn’t, at least, try to read Lorca… in any language!)
Puerta del Puente
Viana palace – “páteos”
Plaza La Corredera
I didn’t eat ice cream, but the pleasure of my wife and grandson say everything. I was astonished by the huge cup served to the child (after dining well), but great part of it was fruit. And they ate everything, with the gentleness of a balloon that made company to the child until leaving the city, in the next day, but not without repeating the visit.
Address: Calle Góngora, 7
Phone: +34 902 43 40 00
Website: Llao Llao
Not for me
The look from outside was inviting, but we had problems: The only table that we found was high, with high seats (no back), which means that I passed the whole dinner with my left hand holding my three years old grandson.
As the food took an eternity to come, you may have an idea of my disposition to appreciate it.
I ordered three tapas, and the service was so confuse, the time between the second and third one more than 30 minutes, and 80% of the dish was… bread.
Considering that they had no wine ( and I agree with that funny phrase that says that “A meal without wine is called breakfast”) you may guess the relief when I finally could descend the child from the bench and live.
However, the restaurant was always full with young people, so, the problem could be my age (and my grandson’s), as the look of the waiter (piercings in the nose and around it, tattoos, crazy haircut) testified.
Address: Calle Victoriano Rivera
Rincon Chico Medina
Best meal in Cordoba
Good food, nice price, gentle service. Do I need to say more?
It was our first restaurant in Cordoba, and the best meal outside the hotel
Address: C/ HISTORIADOR DÍAZ DEL MORAL, 5
Website: Chico Medina
La Posada del Caballo Andaluz
In a very beautiful quarter, by the Alcazaba of the Christian kings, this restaurant serves traditional food at a good price.
A very well conceived room, giving the idea of a traditional Andalusian yard, but with the comfort of the air conditioned.
The service is kind and friendly, and the food well presented, though in small quantities.
Very good list of deserts.
Calle D San Basilio, 16, phone +34 957 29 03 74
Website Caballo Andaluz
Macia Alfaros Hotel – Good hotel
Good hotel, centrally located, at a very reasonable price. It was a nightmare to get there, with the GPS confused in the narrow streets of the old town, and the constraints of traffic.
Upon arrival, and after a few maneuvers to access the subterranean park, surprisingly big, I forgot the car until leaving.
The hotel has a strange architecture, showing that is spreads along several buildings, preserving the external image of a few small buildings side by side instead of the big one that it really is inside.
The room was comfortable and clean, and breakfast was good, though a little pricey (as the park).
The pool is small, nicely decorated, and, with a temperature of 46º outside, we had to share it with almost 20 other customers, in the first day.
Address: Calle Alfaros 18, Cordoba, Andalusia, 14001, Spain
Phone: +34 958 285 806
Entering by car and parking in old Cordoba is almost impossible. Walking is easy, but under the severe heat very uncomfortable (and dangerous) so, the popular horse-drawn carriages may become very useful here.
Hop on Hop off
El Corte Ingles
Naturally Cordova has an “El Corte Inglés”, naturally I had to be taken there, but this time I tried to take an ally. The problem is that the ally quickly changed teams…
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