Eating in Baixa
Given the length of my notes on Lisbon, I decided to divide them into sub-pages, by zones, the same applying to restaurants. More information about Lisbon restaurants is published in “General“, “New Avenues“, Belém“, “EXPO” and “Remote“.
ViniPortugal and Lisbon Welcoming Center
Right in the centre of Lisbon, under the arches of Praça do Comercio, two organizations side by side offer to tourists quality in food and wine.
Wineportugal, a organization, including most of the local associations and producers, has a shop where you can get all the information needed to buy Portuguese wines, and even taste them.
It’s a good stop.
Luxury and Service
Lisbon Welcoming Center. a very ambitious project to promote Portuguese cuisine is the base of this modern complex of restaurant and bar, where luxury and good taste are used to sell some of the best Portuguese recipes, carefully prepared and supplied.
Its location it’s perfect for the tourists, the only drawback, as you may guess, is… the price, but not “forbidden”, having in mind the European standards.
O Cantinho da Rosa
Just a common restaurant, in Bairro Alto.
One day, I had to eat both meals in Bairro Alto. I had lunch in an Italian restaurant, forgotten 5 minutes before exiting.
At dinner, I went to a low class restaurant, and… had a cheap and good dinner.
Price is not everything!
Favorite Dish: Massada de cherne
Address: R. Rosa,224, Lisboa
With less than one hour to have lunch, I entered the closest restaurant with the look of allowing a quick meal.
It did, but so… common, banal, tasteless, inexpressive, that I found the regular price paid a little excessive.
Address: Rua dos Correeiros 37, 1100-161 Lisboa
Phone: +351 21 346 0905
One of the traditional liquors in Portugal, is Ginjinha, made from a sort of cherry. The most famous (and the best) is the one from Alcobaça, but tradition shows it being drunk in Óbidos and in central Lisboa, specially in S. Domingos square, R. Portas de S. Antão or near the Parque Mayer.
However, a secret known only by locals is a cheap long drink in a very small bar in Restauradores – O Pirata. It’s a secret that seems to be made with Port wine, and has two varieties: Pirata and Perna de Pau, this one my favourite.
Look for the entrance at left of Eden building (Virgin).
Decided to try another unusual restaurant in one of the the biggest conglomerations of restaurant in Lisbon, I chose this place. Everything was positive until paying time – the chosen mixed grill was tasty and well served, the chips discreetly flavored with herbs, the waiters efficient and polite. A disillusion with the bill – the usual “couvert” trick, that I describe in my Portugal page – Couvert Tip.
I protested and the not ordered nor consumed cheese and butter were immediately retired from the bill, but without any excuses.
Address: R Portas de Santo Antão, 78
Alentejo at its best
Located near Chiado, in the centre of town, there’s a restaurant so discreet that you may pass by it without noticing it.
And it would be a pity, because it’s really an excellent place to eat. The starters, main meals and wines are delicious; the only drawback is the price.
One of my favorite Portuguese dishes – carne de porco a alentejana, (pork meat fried with clams with a
coriander sauce) – gets here the name “medalhões de porco com ameijoas”, and, believe me, it’s impossible to do it better.
Everything else deserves your choice. A few friends in Virtual Tourist followed my advice, and it was nice to receive their thanks for the suggestion. That’s the double big pleasure in VT – being useful and showing our best to visitors.
Favorite Dish: Medalhões de porco com ameijoas – pork with clams and… pleasure.
Address: Rua do Alecrim, 47-A, Lisboa Phone: +351 21 3423845
With a privileged location, in Largo de São Domingos, this restaurant has guaranteed a high frequency just by raising the awareness of passers-by.
Perhaps for that reason, the best thing about the restaurant is its external appearance. Ordinary food, no major repairs, mechanical service, moderate price.
Served, but did not invite to return.