
Visiting Porto Galinhas
Porto Galinhas is the most “Portuguese” beach that I saw in Pernambuco!
I mean “Portuguese” not only because half of the visitors seem to be Portuguese, but because the structure of the village, its commerce and ambience, are closer to our uses than everywhere else
The beach

The long and wide beach is a good place to swim.
With small surf (or almost none), the waters are shallow and hot.
The protection of the reef may cause some algae concentration but with no risk, and not generalized.
Natural Pools

The top attraction in Porto de Galinhas are the natural pools in the reef. It is, for sure an interesting trip, but not a good idea to have a bath.
The “pool” is small, with a crowd in it, lots of fish, and food, and… some dirt.
The best is the fun with the fish around you, and the silhouettes of the several “jangadas” circling it. It is a short ride, cheap and quick, but the same program in Maragogi is more impressive.
Jangada Ballet

Everybody goes to the natural pool (that’s the main attraction of Porto das Galinhas).
However, even if you decide to stay in the beach, the departure of all the “jangada”, when the tide comes, compose a quiet and beautiful ballet, in contrast with the excitement of the tourists on the way.
Muro Alto

A good swim in a calm natural pool, but, I must confess, that if it wasn’t the presence of two of the best resorts (my travel agent and friend told me), this beach wouldn’t convince me.
To lay in a hot soup is not everything!
Zeca – Sympathy and… that’s all

I was taken to Zeca, in Porto Galinhas, by a taxi driver with a strong recommendation. I must confess that it was his most failed hint. Maybe we choose the wrong dish, but the shrimps were only acceptable and they hadn’t an essential thing for my meals: wine.

A good pineapple was well presented for desert. The girl who served us almost in exclusive was nice, and felt in love with my hat.
I was sorry, but couldn’t offer it because I really needed it, and it was already too dirty. A reasonable price. On last note to say that lunch could be served in the restaurant or in the beach. We preferred the restaurant to use its shower, rather useful after a swim.
Nannay – Couldn’t do

The generally called Porto de Galinhas includes several beaches, including Cupe and Muro Alto in the north, and Maracaípe in the south. I tried to stay 3 nights in Nannay but it was full, so I gave up and stayed in Recife.

In my visit to Porto das Galinhas I decided to check the hotel location, because… in the future… you know.
Well, I had a good swim there, but verified that, being so distant from everything it could pose problems about what to do between swims. Unless, the animation in the hotel matches the Spanish standards… something almost impossible, I think.
Address: Muro Alto
Sun Burning
The trip to the natural pools in Porto Galinhas must respect the low tide.

This means that you risk to go there at an inconvenient hour, when the sun is high and dangerous (it happened to us, both in P. Galinhas and Maragogi.
Without a shade in the reefs, either you use lots of sun protection (not advisable for the fish), or… keep your t-shirt on.
It will not take long to dry in your way back.
Memories of Porto Galinhas
A Touristy Village

With excellent beaches in Pernambuco, I was surprised in most of the visited places by the absence of the usual commercial stalls.
As a matter of fact, everything is sold in the beaches, but Porto de Galinhas was the only place where, walking in the streets, I felt that tourism is the main activity in town.
Small shops line the streets, and, maybe, that’s connected (origin or consequence?) with the high Portuguese preference.
Feed the fish

In Maragogi, the guys that make underwater photos of the tourists deny that they feed the fish – they say it’s forbidden, but the way the fishes surround them in particular, denounces that hidden practice.
In Porto Galinhas, the boat men take fish food to divide with their customers, and feeding fish is assumed as one of the best amusements.
Specially Fernanda, who couldn’t stop laughing with fish tickling her hand.
Jangada

The short trip to the reef and its pools is made with a raft using a small sail almost as decoration, since most of the way is made with the sailor pushing a paddle against the reef.
Asking him if it wouldn’t damage the reef, the answer was “No”, of course, but I was not too convinced.
The path of the shades
The sun is severe, the mandatory stay in the pools will burn a little more our clear skin, and all the resources are useful to extend protection as far as possible.
The empty umbrellas spreading close to the water compose a precious path barefoot to and from the sea, and allow funny perspectives of the beach.

Ecosystem Protecting

In Maragogi and Itamaracá it was easy to notice the many precautions took to protect the reef and its life.
In Porto de Galinhas no special warning was made.
Maybe because everything happens in a single hole, in a secluded area, where the fish seem domesticated, such is the tranquility they show eating from people’s hands, the visual control is easier, and the risk of damage more confined.
Searching for open waters

Those (like me) that love open waters with good surf, after a brief appreciation of the calm behind the reefs may feel the nostalgia of waves and try to go further to open sea.
Its dangerous. Walking on the reef it’s possible, but its ocean face is 15 meters deep, and with the waves striking it would be a foolish idea.
But… what a pity!
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